The traditional jamdani saree weaver Enamul Haque observes that the inscription of the jamdani saree on the UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list will create new opportunities for
hundreds of craftspeople like him.
He believes that the news will grow interest among the Bengalis living at home and abroad about the rich tradition of the handmade saree. The vividly patterned sheer cotton fabric also has the potential to attract wider consumers across the globe, he hopes.
In fact, Enamul Haque was involved with the preparation of the Bangladesh’s nomination titled ‘Traditional art of Jamdani weaving’ that was approved by the Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of Intangible Heritage of UNESCO unanimously at its eighth session on Wednesday in Azerbaijan’s capital Baku.
Bangla Academy, which prepared the nomination, made video footages that included Enamul Haque weaving rich and exquisite motifs on his handloom in BISIC Jamdani village in Rupganj, Narayanganj.
Jamdani is the second Bangladeshi heritage inscribed on the UNESCO’s ICH list following the inscription of Baul songs in 2008.
Enamul’s hope has also been reflected in the UNESCO’s official statement made following the inscription of 14 new ICHs in Baku stating, ‘Inscription could promote safeguarding measures involving both the craftspeople and governmental agencies and reflecting their shared commitment aim to create favourable conditions for the transmission of knowledge and marketing of the textiles.’
Designing the traditional motifs and weaving techniques for jamdani are learnt from master weavers in family atmosphere of the weaving communities and Enamul Haque also learnt the technique from his father Sirajul Haque at the age of 10.
‘Since then, I’ve been involved with the family business for the past 26 years,’ said Enamul Haque in an interview with New Age while participating at the recent handicraft fair organised by the Bangladesh National Museum at the Nalinikanta Bhattasali Gallery.
Enamul thinks that the condition of jamdani weavers is better these days, compared to that decades ago. ‘Compared to my father’s time, we are getting better business opportunities as local and foreigners buyers are showing interest in buying jamdani saree for its distinctive design. The government has allocated plots for the traditional craftspeople, and several boutique outlets in the country are giving orders for more sarees,’ he said.
According to Enamul Haque it takes almost two weeks to create distinctive geometric motifs directly on the loom using the discontinuous weft technique. ‘I always try to create new designs following the tradition. Apart from design, the thinner thread used for jamdani makes it different from other fabrics.’
Enamul, however, believes that today’s jamdanis often lack the quality and splendour compared to the sarees weaved by his father and grandfather. ‘The government should come forward with a comprehensive plan to revive the lost glory of the traditional fabric, which is thriving today due to the fabric’s popularity for making sarees, the principal dress of Bengali women at home and abroad.’
-With New Age input
